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Giambattista Valli Dresses Up Ponytails With a Hit of Unexpected Color for Couture


Photo: Gianni Pucci /

“To be honest, it’s quite raw,” offered Eugene Souleiman of the perfectly imperfect copper-wash ponytails at Giambattista Valli Couture. Getting such a simple effect is trickier than it appears: “It’s kind of pulled back at the sides for a more boyish effect,” he explained, reaching for words to describe his technique before concluding, “It should feel like it’s been done with hands, rather than being wrapped around a curling iron. It has to feel real.” Souleiman used Wella’s Dry Me dry shampoo to add texture before using a sherbet-colored spray that mirrored the fluoro orange finale gown. “It’s not hard to do, but it’s one of those things where you have to have a feeling for it,” he said. “Doing nothing is hard—you either have the feeling or you don’t. You can teach technique, but you can’t teach feeling. It’s quite personal.”

“The makeup is very real and simple,” noted makeup pro Val Garland backstage before the show. To conjure modern-day Talitha Gettys, she distilled the beauty look down to three elements: perfect skin, a sweep of eyeliner, and a “cellophane lip.” For models’ complexions, she reached for MAC Mineralize Timecheck Lotion, Matchmaster foundation, concealer, and sometimes a tinted moisturizer to lend a lighter finish. To anyone wondering how to keep that band of black from smudging: “I’m using [Fluidline in] Blacktrack and black cream liner—sometimes both, with the cream liner on top—and it just stays put,” she said. For lips, Garland employed MAC Plushglass in Ample Pink and blended it with Mixing Medium Shine for a glossy pout that played off the hits of metallic raffia on the runway.

—Tina Isaac-Goizé,

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