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A Subtle Way to Wear Glitter, Bulk Up Your Brows, and Give Yourself a “Facelift”

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Backstage at Roberto CavalliPhoto: Michele Morosi / Indigitalimages.com

Eye Opener

Even on a Saturday morning, models were looking bright-eyed at Roberto Cavalli, thanks to makeup artist Petros Petrohilos. The pro applied MAC Cosmetics Glitter in Reflects Pearl, in lieu of classic highlighter, to catwalkers’ inner corners for a twinkling effect. Later in the day at Emilio Pucci, mane master Eugene Souleiman gave models a temporary “face-lift” with two tightly pulled-back plaits—one on either side of the face, near the temples—that were eventually hidden under blown-out strands. “We thought we’d contour them with hair, ” he said. “It wakes them up.”

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On the runway at Bottega VenetaPhoto: Gianni Pucci / Indigitalimages.com

Lip Service

Wine-stained lips surfaced at Bottega Veneta, where Pat McGrath custom-blended a red burgundy shade and dabbed it onto models’ lips with her fingertip for a “lived-in” look. At Pucci, Lisa Butler took the same approach, but employed a combo of MAC’s Lady Danger and On Hold lipsticks for a sheer texture inspired by the lip gloss worn by Sylvia Kristel in the ’70s.

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Backstage at Emilio PucciPhoto: Sonny Vandevelde / Indigitalimages.com

Smooth Secret

To create a character that looked like the “girlfriend of a famous musician” in the “VIP tent at a festival” for Pucci, Souleiman misted strands with Wella’s new Dry Me powder spray to intentionally add a “staticky” texture. He smoothed the area at the top by spritzing the roots near the center part with hair spray, and combed a layer of hair overtop so it “feels like there’s no product.”

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Backstage at Jil SanderPhoto : Sonny Vandevelde / Indigitalimages.com

Bulked-Up Brows

Butler brushed brows up with a tinted gel backstage at Pucci, resulting in arches that were “quite hairy, but not thick or heavy.” McGrath also emphasized brows backstage at Jil Sander. First, she created the shape with pencil and powder in a shade slightly deeper than each model’s natural hair color, then took the “weight out” by brushing through arches with a spool-y brush.

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Daiane Conterat backstage at Roberto CavalliPhoto: Michele Morosi / Indigitalimages.com

Model Metamorphosis

Former blond catwalker Daiane Conterato showed up at Cavalli as a brunette (thanks to colorist Davide Diodovich), joining the legions of models going dark this season. “It was a crazy transformation, but a lot of people are happy, and I’m happy too,” she said. “It’s good to be back to brunette—it’s less work!” The makeover only took two hours the day before the show. “It was really quick; I thought it was going to be worse,” she added. The catwalker only spent four months with flaxen hair after two-and-a-half years with black strands, and now she’s settled somewhere in the middle with a rich, chocolate hue. But Conterato wasn’t the only model who switched up her look. At Bottega Veneta, Guido Palau added bangs to four girls (including shade-shifter Esmeralda Seay-Reynolds) to stress the idea of “individuality” that designer Tomas Maier was after this season. Explained Palau: “Bangs give you a cool, rock-and-roll feeling that’s youthful and full of character.”

—Amber Kallor, Style.com

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