In contrast to the normal kerfuffle, the backstage scene at Stella McCartney’s Pre-Fall presentation was relatively calm—almost serene. This could be attributed to the fact that the models were treated to expedited spa services by Sunday Riley. When I arrived, a steamed washcloth was being draped over the likes of Hanne Gaby Odiele, prepping her face for a quick four-minute mask consisting of Ceramic Slip Cleanser (containing French green clay to tighten pores and black pepper to ramp up circulation) and Good Genes (a treatment with lactic acid to exfoliate and licorice to brighten). After this first step was wiped away, Start Over eye cream—described as a “high-tech cucumber”—was applied to de-puff. To seal in moisture like “saran wrap,” the brand’s forthcoming facial oil (out in March), Artemis, was smoothed from forehead to chin. This blend of lemon ironbark, lemon myrtle, grapefruit, black cumin seed oil, and milk thistle seed oil tones, takes down redness, and, more important, absorbs quickly so that the girls could be passed on to face painter Neil Young.
“It’s one of those makeups that’s like a recipe; some girls need three ingredients and some need five,” Young said of the fresh-faced look. Concealer was applied only where needed, a taupe powder was used on “less angular” models to contour, and MAC Power Blush in Blushbaby was used to “cheat it a bit” and create a natural flush in a few cases. Lips were dabbed with balm, and brows were brushed up. The hair by Antoinette Beenders was equally as easy: Aveda Pure Abundance Style-Prep was spritzed at the crown, and ends were smoothed with Dry Remedy Daily Moisturizing Oil before blow-drying to enhance any natural texture. “It should look like the girls slept on it and put their hands through it,” Beenders explained. To finish, strands were tucked behind the ears for “toughness,” and for those with shorter cuts, the length was twisted into a knot near the nape of the neck. Will the undone hair and no-makeup makeup movement we saw for Spring 2014 continue to reign for fall? Hard to believe the answer is only a few weeks away.
