Faux bobs abounded at Dries Van Noten—all inspired by the forties-esque dresses and shoes in the show. Sam McKnight disguised models’ length by braiding the under-layers at the nape to form an “anchor,” misting all over with Fudge Salt Spray to create a matte texture, and wrapping sections around an iron to form loose curls. After a generous spritz of Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray was applied, the hair was divided into three sections, and each was tied off at the end with a band. McKnight then rolled up each piece and secured it to the plait that acted as a pincushion, allowing the shorter layers to cascade around the right side of the face. To play off the metallic pieces, he slid a flat barrette just behind the left ear to finish. “Dries’ focus for the hair was a wave, but the wave down was too glamorous. A small head somehow made it a little more masculine and a little less frivolous,” he noted.
“It’s just one graphic element,” Peter Philips explained of the onyx eyes at Dries Van Noten. “The collection is full of prints and bold combinations, so we wanted to do something that’s strong but doesn’t clash with the clothing.” His weapons of choice: MAC Chromacake in Black Black and Giorgio Armani Beauty’s Eye Shader Brush. A clean, angular shape was swathed across the lid and bluntly ended just past the corner of the eye—deliberately not bringing it to a point, which would make it feel “retro.”
It’s not the first time we’ve seen an artist focus on this aspect of the face this season—from Derek Lam to Roberto Cavalli, the eyes certainly have it. Philips’ reasoning: “If you do a lip or an eye, it brings the girls together and creates an army that represents the designer’s vision…It makes them almost anonymous because it overtakes the natural shape of the eye and becomes an accessory.” In comparison to Van Noten’s shimmery, silver Mary Janes that are now sitting on my Fall 2014 wish list, this lid look is an accessory I can definitely afford.
