Where makeup artist Tom Pecheux started is not where he wound up at Altuzarra. Inspired by the double-faced cashmere in the collection, his first instinct was to create a dual-colored eye. “It looked so uptown…a little bit tight-ass,” he said of the initial attempt. To loosen things up, he reached for a pot of MAC 3D Glitter in Brass Gold (a metallic with a green undertone) that was sitting on the table at the test, and the look suddenly fell into place. Or as the designer’s mother, Karen Altuzarra, quipped, “It was dumb luck.” To give the glitter something to grip onto, he prepped lids with concealer or foundation. Next, he coated a thin brush with Homeoplasmine before dipping it into the sparkles and running them along the upper lashes like liner. For a diffused effect, Pecheux used a dry, fluffy brush to pat more shimmery particles lightly up toward the brow bone. The rest of the face was kept neutral—including the lips, which were layered with a pink (Myself) and beige (Siss) hue to create the perfect flesh tone. And just before the models took to the runway, Pecheux placed lipstick in Good Kisser (a vivid fuchsia) messily into the crease of six models’ eyes. “We need to show luxury, but we have to be playful,” the face painter noted.
“Here is ballerina, here is madame, and here you don’t think,” hair pro Odile Gilbert said in regards to the placement of the textured chignons that rested squarely at the back of the head. She used nothing but her fingers to scrape strands back before coiling the length and securing it with “just three or four pins.” The finished product was meant to mimic how Kate Moss would craft her own bun. And honestly, who wouldn’t want to DIY that?
