This season, Giles Deacon moved on from his usual gothic location and into the heart of hipsterville near London’s Spitalfields market. It was a show that made the headlines for a bunch of reasons, namely its cast, which included Jourdan Dunn, Cara Delevingne and, in her London fashion week catwalk debut, Kendall Jenner. And let’s not forget the first-ever selfie straight from the runway (courtesy of Delevingne).
The action backstage before the show, however, was equally exciting. “Melancholy with a touch of techno.” This is how Label M’s global creative director, Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck, described Giles’ Fall 2014 offering. The clothes, with their nature-inspired prints, were in stark contrast to the hair created by Eugene Souleiman, who took his cue from girls who ride motorcycles. After being doused with Label M Sea Salt Spray, strands were brushed forward and blow-dried so that a crisp and matted texture was locked into the length. Next, a hair net was placed over the crown and blasted again with the dryer, this time using a diffuser. The effect, once the net came off, was that of helmet hair—flat and tight around the head.
Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni used MAC Eye Shadow in Copperplate over the lid and into the socket for depth before topping it with Scene (a smoky gray)—diffusing the pigment up toward the brow and outer corners to form an almondlike shape. To darken the upper lash line, Pieroni used Technakohl Liner in Graphblack and Eye Shadow in Carbon. And for a pop of vibrant color, Chromagraphic Pencil in Cyan was boldly etched along the entire length of the lower lashes and into the inner corners of the eye—picking up on the vibrant feathers of the kingfisher bird motif that flew in and out of the collection.
