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Backstage at Kenzo, A Cobalt Crush

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“The Kenzo girl is elevated, young, and cool. We did a fifties style gel eyeliner, in a cobalt blue, paired with a graphic brow. This is an uplifted look.”

—Aaron De Mey

The Kenzo Creative Directors, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, are cinema fanatics, Aaron De Mey tells me—and testament to that fact, the duo had both the set and score designed for their Fall 2014 show by none other than filmmaker David Lynch. One of the main inspirations cited for the makeup was his film Blue Velvet, so rather fitting that a vivid cobalt blue was chosen to give the models eyes and nails their turn in the spotlight.

Using the professional grade M.A.C ChromaLine in Marine Ultra, a gel liner that is super highly pigmented, the makeup crew crafted a winged eye that made for a shock of electric blue every time the models blinked. “No lashes, no curling and no mascara,” were the orders from De Mey. The only other addition to the face was a slick of highlighter across the bridge of the nose, the cheeks, chin and cupids bow to give that mannequin-like finish to the skin. With just a dusting of the M.A.C Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder to both mattify and set the center of the face, the models skin was ready for all the flashbulbs and spotlights waiting out on set.

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