Marking the 10th anniversary of Esteban Cortazar’s Paris debut, the designer blazed the runway at Fall 2017 Paris Fashion Week with a sequence of 29 looks that spanned his creative moodboard with applied confidence. The craftsmanship was completely in tune with paradoxical fashion nowness: delicate but bold.
The show notes were cryptic: “cyber landscape” and “digital quilts.” Only when look 15 filed onto the runway––a semi-sheer turtleneck of collaged Instagram photos from the designer’s profile tucked into red leather pants worn by Zoe Manakh––the penny dropped. Cortazar got personal for Fall 2017.
Were his “patchwork of memories” from social media––impressed with a permanence in silk collars and tops––extending the legacy of his output? Perhaps.
The textures certainly bounced about throughout the collection—from photogenic fur-topped sandals in banana yellow to midnight blue satin separates teamed with tough-girl leather accessories. The tartan episode in the collection relays the designer’s Anglo-French heritage and revived his “gitana punk” vibe, reminiscent of Clueless. The element of surprise cropped up with faux fur abruptly placed alongside grown-up woollens.
But the pièce de résistance? A seemingly feather-light base of sheer tulle was the foundation for the airy etchings of a plaid print. So delicate it could have been interpreted as band aids of premium green and orange wool. The piece came to completion with a deftly placed single thread flicking from the bottom of the sweater’s hem (also seen in a sweater dress that tickled the runway floor).
See the full Esteban Cortazar Fall 2017 collection here on Vogue Arabia Runway.