A Sharjah-based manufacturing company working in leather goods for the past ten years is taking the plunge into the world of fashion design with NATIVE, a line of leather goods bags “Made in the UAE”. Entirely made in-house, the designs feature exotic skins including alligator, ostrich, python, and even camel hide sourced from Abu Dhabi. Ahead of the formal Fall launch, Style.com/Arabia speaks with Founder and Designer, Rachna Malkanie and Filippo Pugnetti, respectively, on stripping down and showing a new side of the region to the world.
You have been manufacturing corporate products for various brands out of your Sharjah-based facility for years now. What sparked the desire to design your own line of leather handbags?
RACHNA MALKANIE.
Rachna Malkanie: Native was conceptualized because we were very keen to showcase to the world what we have achieved in terms quality with regards to leather. I am sure that you are aware that the UAE is not a place that is known for generating an industry in fashion. People know Dubai for its brilliant architecture, its paradisiacal shopping, and its glamour, but nobody looks to the UAE as a country that can produce a beautiful and genuine craftsmanship with regards to manufacturing. We want to put the UAE on the global fashion map. Our excitement stems from this motivation to show that Dubai has a different side to it—a different soul to it.
Do you think people will be receptive to this concept or doubt the capacity for fine craftsmanship from the UAE in the fashion and luxury sector?
Rachna: We can take it to a world-class level. We know that if we want to stand out, we need to be really authentic in our approach. We want to make an impact and we found the talent in Italy. Their artisans and designers are, after all, the best in the world.
We started looking for someone with raw talent and we found Filippo Pugnetti [a former designer for Chloé]. We brought him to Dubai and he’s with us now.
FILIPPO PUGNETTI.
Among various exotic skins, Native also works with camel hide. Why isn’t this skin used more often?
Filippo Pugnetti: It is very difficult to find the raw materials, and once this is done, only a small percentage of a camel’s hide fit the exacting Native quality standards. Camel hide is very strong, very durable. All the skins used by Native are sourced from ethical suppliers either locally or around the world. In fact, the leather is vegetable-tanned and no metal is used in the process; it is chrome free and biodegradable. ”
NATIVE FALL 2013 CAMPAIGN.
In the Middle East, women often have a strong desire to stand out and bank on a “more is more” approach to dressing. But it appears that you’ve taken a more restrained approach here. These bags are almost free of embellishments, with the exception of the odd fringe, and the campaign images showcases a woman in simple, all-white attire, looking very free, and wearing no jewelry. Describe for us the woman that Native speaks to.
Rachna: This is for the woman who is not trying to be anybody. She’s not trying to follow; she sets trends; she is strong and confident. The Native woman is still very much in touch with her feminine side and she has a lot of love and compassion, but she refuses to follow the pack.
Do you think that women from the Middle East will relate to this?
Rachna: We are looking for a global reach, but yes, I do feel that there is a Native woman in every woman. But for some reason—let’s call it society norms, or the fear of being laughed at—we never tend to bring that authentic woman out. What we, as a brand, are trying to say is, “Be more of a Native woman. Be more of who you are.” We are trying to touch that nerve and bring that woman out—she deserves better.
Native will launch in Bologna, Italy at the exclusive L’Inde le Palais, August 13 with the formal launch due October 13. The website, just launched today, is www.nativedubai.com
