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MAKEUP June 15, 2016

Don’t Skip this Eye Makeup Masterclass (It’s Only 6 Steps)

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The Art of Mastering Eye Makeup

the basic steps to painting beautiful eyes Without a doubt, our eyes are our most endearing facial feature. We can be solely identifiable by our eyes (by their shape, color, and pattern), and much like a fingerprint, no two pairs of eyes are the same. For example, have you heard of smizing? Yes, you can actually smile with your eyes. And have you noticed that when you are happy, your eyes sparkle? In short, our eyes are not just an object of beauty but can also display how we are feeling, and for this truth they are truly captivating to others. In this makeup master class, we’ve prepared a step-by-step lesson on how to make the most out of our most unique asset. Get your notebooks ready—this is beauty time well spent.

Step 1: The Base

Start with applying an eye base such as Laura Mercier's Eye Basics all over the eye socket. This formula is my favorite when using powder eyeshadows, as this is a cream that dries quickly into a powder finish, leaving you with a smooth primed lid ready for blending. This is the best start to the perfect application.   Tutorial: How to make up your eyes Makeup artist: Kate Goodwin, CEO & Founder of Illumin8 Media Make-Up Studio, Dubai http://www.illumin8makeupstudio.com

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Step 2: The Shadow

I like to use a matte, neutral eyeshadow first to contour the entire eye socket. Choosing a matte powder formula helps create a seamless blend. Taking a neutral color gives you a guide and once you have perfected the basic shape, you can follow this with the addition of other colors and textures over the top. I love Bobbi Brown Eye Shadow; a favorite would be a mauve pallet of Mulberry and Heather, which is a great color combination whatever your skin tone may be.

Step 3: The Highlight

Take a light eyeshadow shade in a gold, champagne, or beige, and begin to work on the inner corners of the eye—this is a great trick to make you look wide-awake. One important tip is not to apply light colors to areas of the eye that are puffy, as this will accentuate puffiness even more. To give the illusion of a lift, use a light or nude cream based eyeshadow on the brow bone. Go sparingly on this part—less is definitely more when it comes to highlighting. An alternative is to use a tiny dab of skin illuminator instead as these are really fine formulas that can blend more naturally. Nars Illuminator in Copacabana is beautiful for this.

Step 4: The Smoke

Using a darker shade, blend softly into the eyelid socket and elongate to the outer edge of the eye; this will create added depth. Then, using the same shadow, sweep it along the lower lashes connecting the upper and lower together. I call this the "V" shape. The trick is to connect the upper and lower eyeshadows together so that there are no gaps. The Tom Ford Eye Color Quad palettes blend very well and you get four complimentary colors in one palette, making tonal color decisions much easier.

Step 5: The Liner

Using a soft black kohl pencil, create a line on the outer corners of the lash line and remember to apply closely to the lash line on both the top and bottom lashes. Then, take a small angled brush to soften and blend outwards. You can also create a feline flick with this technique by elongating the line a little upwards and outwards at the outer most edge of the eyes. Once you have traced the line in kohl pencil, you can add drama by going over the line with a gel or liquid eyeliner. A great tip is to always keep the eyeliner at the inner corners thin and then gradually draw the line thicker as you pull out towards the outer corners. I like to use a small flat brush and line the inner water line, too. The Estée Lauder Double Wear Stay-in-Place Eye Pencil in Onyx is a fabulous product as it glides on smoothly and is very intense.

Step 6:

If you want to really make your eyes pop, use a black kohl pencil to line the inner water line for a soft smoky finish. I love the Laura Mercier Kohl Eye Pencil in Black Violet it has soft blue/violet particles that make the whites of the eyes look whiter. Finish off by curling your lashes, clamping them right at the root. For maximum impact apply two or three coats of black mascara. My favorite lash lengthener at the moment is Le Volume De Mascara in Noir.

The Do’s and Don’ts

-Start with a clean canvas and always apply an eye cream. If the eye contour area is too dry, the product won't blend or hold properly. -Take your time when applying your eye makeup. The secret is to really blend so that there are no harsh lines. Look at yourself straight on in the mirror as you go to ensure both eyes are equal. -Always apply kohl liner as close as possible to the lash lines. If there are white gaps, the overall look will come across as poorly applied. -Be careful when applying makeup to your eye contour area as the skin is very sensitive. Don’t drag or pull the skin—treat it with a delicate touch. -When creating the feline flick at the outer corners of the eye, always work the pencil in an upward diagonal motion. If you angle downwards it will make your eyelids look droopy.

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Without a doubt, our eyes are our most endearing facial feature. We can be solely identifiable by our eyes (by their shape, color, and pattern), and much like a fingerprint, no two pairs of eyes are the same. For example, have you heard of smizing? Yes, you can actually smile with your eyes. And have you noticed that when you are happy, your eyes sparkle? In short, our eyes are not just an object of beauty but can also display how we are feeling, and for this truth they are truly captivating to others.

In this makeup master class, we’ve prepared a step-by-step lesson on how to make the most out of our most unique asset. Get your notebooks ready—this is beauty time well spent.

—Elizabeth Whiston-Dew

 

Homepage image: urbandecay / Instagram

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